My Essential Pepin

Photo courtesy KQED from the Essential Pépin TV Series Photo credit: © 2010 – Cristiana CeppasToday, Sandy turns over her Monday spot to Mary Jane Reiter, Special Fork’s public relations manager, who blogs about her recent class with the legendary chef, Jacques Pépin.

By Mary Jane Reiter

Before there was Emeril, Bobby, Gordon or Martha, there was Jacques. Jacques Pépin has spent the last 60 years as a professional chef, restaurateur, cookbook author and host of many PBS cooking shows. His most recent TV show and companion book Essential Pepin contains more than 700 of his favorite recipes.

Jacques Pépin is MY celebrity chef. So when I had the opportunity recently to attend a techniques class for culinary students, taught by Pépin, I jumped at the chance. He spoke at the International Culinary Center in Campbell, California, where he is on the board.

Not being a culinary student myself, but more of a culinary wanna-be, and Pépin groupie, I was fascinated with every morsel of information he provided.

Pépin is as charming and delightful in person as he is on television. No theatrics, no coarse language. Just a modest man with a charming sense of humor, who likes to cook and share his knowledge with the rest of us.

Entering the room in his chef’s coat and apron, he swiftly began setting up his tools and arranging the produce for today’s demonstration. He took a hard look and feel at the knives and he shook his head in dismay because they were not as sharp as he would have liked.

Before beginning the demo, Chef Pépin offered some fatherly advice to the students. You must become a good craftsman before you can become an artist. As in any skill, it’s about learning fundamentals. Once mastered and combined with love, you have the ingredients to become a great “artist.”

Here are six essential things I learned in my afternoon with Jacque Pépin. I wish there had been time for more.

• For chopping and slicing vegetables, place the heel of the hand on a cutting board with fingers curved; place the knife against curved fingers, then move the knife down and forward in a slicing motion; move the fingers back to control the size of the next cut; using this down and forward motion on hard bread will keep the slices from collapsing and becoming misshapen.
• To avoid crying while chopping an onion, start with a sharp knife. A dull knife will crush the onion (not cut it) causing the release of noxious vapors.
• The best part of broccoli is the stem. Use a vegetable peeler to remove the fibrous parts of the stem, then slice and steam or sauté.
• Crack an egg on a flat surface, not the edge of a bowl, or risk introducing bacteria to the egg.
• To make an omelet, heat oil or butter over high heat in a non-stick pan; Pour in beaten eggs (salt and pepper added) and stir continuously with a fork, shaking the pan for about two minutes. The eggs should resemble small curds. When most of the mixture has set, cook without stirring for about 10 seconds to create a thin coating underneath. Roll the omelet in half, folding over one side and then the other making a seam in the middle. Invert onto plate with the seam side down.
• Cook turnips and potatoes together for mashed potatoes; turnips will keep the potatoes from getting mushy.

Pepin demonstrated how to bone a whole chicken. He made it look so easy, but then again he’s been doing it for 60 years. I’m afraid this wanna-be cook will continue to prevail upon the butcher.

Chicken is one of Pepin’s favorite foods. His recipe for Chicken in Vinegar is a typical dish he serves at home.

To get the recipe and shopping list on your smartphone (iPhone, BlackBerry, Android device) or PC, click here.

Chicken in Vinegar
One chicken (about 3 ½ pounds) cut up into 8 pieces (2 legs, 2 thighs, and 2 breasts halved)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 garlic cloves, crushed and finely chopped (1 tablespoon)
½ cup red wine vinegar
1/3 cup water
1 ½ cups peeled, seeded and chopped tomatoes
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon or basil

Sprinkle the chicken pieces with half the salt and pepper.

Melt the butter in a large heavy skillet. When the butter is hot, add the chicken leg pieces skin side down and brown for about 3 minutes over medium heat. Turn the pieces and brown for another 3 minutes on the other side. Add the breasts, skin side down, cover tightly, and cook over medium-low heat for about 20 minutes. Remove the chicken to a serving platter and keep warm at the back of the stove or in a 160 degree F. oven. (As soon as the chicken cools somewhat, you can remove the bones from the breasts--they will pull off easily--and the pieces of backbone, if you left it on. It is a little more elegant to remove the bones, but the chicken can certainly be served with them).

Add the garlic to the skillet and sauté for 1 minute, without browning. Add the wine vinegar and water and bring to a boil, stirring to melt all the solidified juices. Boil for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and the remaining salt and pepper (the sauce should be peppery). Simmer for 4 to 5 minutes to thicken the sauce. (If the sauce separates, emulsify it by whisking in two tablespoons warm water.)

Pour the sauce over the chicken, sprinkle with the herbs and serve. Serves 4.

Mary Jane Reiter leads a double life. She serves as the public relations manager for Special Fork and is a Certified Sommelier working in a local winery. Mary Jane’s love of food began as a young bride when she received a copy of Bon Appétit Magazine. After years of cooking gourmet dinners with friends and attending local cooking classes, she was attended a week-long cooking school in Provence. Wine education soon followed and she passed the Court of Master Sommeliers certificate program in 2007. Follow her on Twitter @specialforkwine.

In addition to all things food and wine, Mary Jane is a public relations consultant to high-tech companies in Silicon Valley.

Photo courtesy KQED from the Essential Pépin TV Series Photo credit: © 2010 – Cristiana Ceppas

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