Beautiful Beans!

By Lori Powell

About 100 years ago, the string bean had a makeover and was newly uncloaked as a stringless wonder. A very good thing since it was considered laborious to de-string.

Since then, the humble bean has gone on to new heights of popularity. Farmers are growing unusual varieties with exotic names in abundance. I've highlighted three below (see photo) after buying them at the Union Square Greenmarket in New York City.

Red Swan -- dusty red rose outside with kiwi flesh color inside; wider and flatter than velour beans; juicy and sweet in flavor; a bush bean

Velour -- deep purple on the outside and bright green apple on the inside; when cooked it turns green; looks like a deep purple haricot vert (French green bean); super-tender and complex in flavor; a bush bean

Yellow wax bean -- bright or pale yellow inside and out; stays yellow when cooked; sweet, mild and slightly nutty in flavor; a bush bean

I was glad to have had my hand in a box of the velour beans before a chef showed up with a huge shopping bag and grabbed what was left. Timing is everything and I applaud all chefs across the country who work with their local farmers to grow the more unusual varieties. This, in turn, enables us regular folks who frequent farmers' markets to purchase and enjoy the fruits of their labor.

This is the first year that I have grown green beans. Only three plants since I wasn't entirely sure of the yield I would get...also I'm not sure how I'm doing. But I really don't care as long as, at the end of the day when I reach home, I have at least six to eight young ones to snap off the plant and eat before I even get into the house.

As of yet, my beans have not undergone the transformation of making them tender by cooking as I love the crunch and the green taste of the tender young raw ones. I rarely allow them to grow longer than my pinky finger.

These beans can all be used interchangeably with each other and in place of the regular green variety.

My recipe for one today is a simple approach to highlight the flavor of these beans instead of masking them. So I blanch them first (sad to see the gorgeous purple and rose colors turn to green but it is a pretty green), then give them a quick sauté with some sweet shallot in a little olive oil and butter. Finally, finish them with a splash of fresh lemon juice and a sprinkle of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

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Warm Bush Bean Salad
Serves 1

2 ounces red swan beans, trimmed
2 ounces velour beans, trimmed
2 ounces yellow wax beans, trimmed
1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 shallot, finely chopped
1 to 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh mint (optional)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Blanch beans, adding the red swan first for 1/2 minute then the remaining beans in a medium saucepan of boiling salted water, until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes total. Drain and transfer to a bowl of ice and cold water until cool. Drain and pat dry.
2. In same saucepan wiped dry, melt butter in olive oil over moderately high heat and sauté shallot, until just tender but not allowing it to color, about 1-1/2 minutes. Add beans and toss with tongs until just heated through and tender, about 1 minute. Transfer to a serving bowl and toss with lemon juice and mint (if using); season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Serving suggestions:

• Top with crumbled goat cheese or feta.
• Toss with toasted pine nuts, almonds, sesame seeds or poppy seeds
• Toss with freshly chopped chives, basil or tarragon
• Sprinkle with smoked paprika, cumin or flavored salts
• Toss with cooked corn kernels and chopped fresh jalapeno pepper; replace the lemon with lime juice

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