Childhood Ambition
Thursday, February 10, 2011 at 4:00AM 
When I was a child, I loved to scramble eggs. My family said my eggs were the best they ever had. When people asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up, my answer was always a high-pitched, “Chef!” And while I rebelled against that certainty for a short stint in my 20’s, my destiny was set early in life.
So it was no surprise to anyone when my cousin Chipper and I, at the ripe old age of 10, decided to open a restaurant called “Andrewshka’s.” We would only serve potatoes… in all their glorious fried forms. I still remember standing together in the backyard by my dad’s grill shaking hands on our business venture.
More than 30 years later, my love of eating potatoes has been as steadfast as my love for cooking. One of my favorites is Pommes Lyonnaise, potatoes cooked with onions. And what could be better? This recipe can be doubled or even tripled to make enough for a party.
Pommes Lyonnaise
4 russet potatoes, peeled and cut in ½ inch slices
1 cup diced bacon
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 bunch Italian parsley, coarsely chopped
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Fill a large saucepan with salted water and bring it to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook at a gentle simmer for 15 minutes, or until tender. Handle the cooked potatoes gently so they don’t break apart. Drain in a colander and place in a baking dish.
While the potatoes are simmering, sauté the bacon in a large sauté pan over medium heat for about 10 minutes, stirring often. Drain off most of the fat and add the garlic and onion. Sauté for 10 minutes longer, or until the garlic and onion are soft and aromatic. Add the chicken stock, vinegar and parsley, and bring to a quick boil.
Pour the bacon mixture over the cooked potatoes, cover with foil, and bake for 20 minutes.
Tip: Traditionally, the potato slices are lightly browned on each side before baking. Feel free to do this, though it can be challenging if you’re making enough for a party.
The potatoes and bacon mixture can be cooked in advance, chilled separately and combined in the baking dish. If you prepare the dish in advance, let it sit at room temperature for an hour before baking in a 350°F oven.
Ben and Nick can be whatever they want when they grow up; our goal is to foster happy confidence in the kitchen. Chipper makes his living selling heavy equipment now but he’s known for his ambitious home cooking, including lobster poached in vanilla scented cream.
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Reader Comments (1)
Great memories Andy. I remember the smell of potato pancakes like it was yesterday. MMMmmm. Sourcream and applesauce, mixed togehter on a plate, secret dipping sauce.